Bitter Orange Marmalade: Recipe

You know how sometimes a whole crop of citrus is destroyed due to frost or unseasonably cold weather? If my mom had her way, none of that fruit would go to waste. My mother is the queen of finding a use for everything. I suppose it's a kind of variation on turning lemons into lemonade or utilitarianism.

Sadly her amazingly prolific orange tree took quite a hit this year. And while she questions if the tree will survive, she went ahead and harvested the seemingly inedible fruit and made absolutely delicious marmalade out of it. She may not have actual Seville oranges, but she certainly has a solution for unripe oranges. Their tangy sour bite is mellowed in the marmalade but brightens up your morning English muffin, toast or scone.

My mom's recipe came from the Complete American Jewish Cookbook, a book I don't have, but she made a few changes to it. I'd never made marmalade before, but having a recipe that didn't require pectin and processing jars made me game to try it. Making your own marmalade means you can make it as thick or thin as you like and as sweet or bitter as you like. Around here we like it plenty bitter and a tad thin so it spreads easily. While bitter oranges are a very seasonal item marmalade is happily enjoyed all year long.

Bitter Orange Marmalade
(more a formula than a recipe)

Ripe or unripe oranges
Sugar

Wash and dry the fruit. Cut unpeeled into quarters lengthwise then slice very thin crosswise. Measure fruit, place in a large pot and add twice as much water. Let stand overnight.

The next day, bring to boil covered then uncover and simmer 1 hour. Let stand 24 hours.

Measure the fruit and liquid and add no more than 1 1/2 cups of sugar per 2 cups of fruit mixture. Boil until it reaches the consistency you like, probably between 10 and 20 minutes or so, it will thicken slightly as it cools.

Sterilize jars in whichever method you prefer. (I wash them with soapy water then fill them halfway with water and microwave for about 5 minutes, until the water boils, remove with potholders and empty them just before filling.) Pour marmalade into hot jars and seal. If your jars do not seal airtight, just keep the jam in the refrigerator.

Enjoy!

Blackberry Ketchup at Sherrill's Inn: Recipe

Just a week ago I visited historic Sherrill's Inn in Hickory Nut Gap just South of Asheville, North Carolina. Set against a backdrop of rolling hills and manicured gardens I enjoyed a leisurely cooking demonstation that utilized produce and meat from farms less than a mile away. Descendants of the family that owns the inn operate Flying Cloud Farm, named after an old stagecoach, and Spring House Meats. Local farms in the area such as Flying Cloud are primarily organic but have not sought certification. Spring House raises antibiotic and hormone free grassfed beef, lamb, pork and pastured chickens. Both sell at the local "tailgate markets" in and around Asheville.


I enjoyed a tour of the property and the inn, which dates back to around 1800.

Outside was a stone house with a spring running through it that served as a refrigerator.


There was also an old stockade on the property that serves as a smokehouse.


In one room were murals painted depicting early scenes from the inn.


Local chef Joe Scully and owner of the Corner Kitchen just outside the Biltmore Estate in Asheville prepared wilted Swiss chard, cheddar grits and pork chops with blackberry ketchup. Forget any notions of commercially prepared tomato ketchup, this spicy, sweet and tangy sauce is wonderful with pork, chicken or even turkey. Joe said his kids even it use it to dip their fries! It's a North Carolina recipe that can be easily made at home. You can use frozen or fresh blackberries and because they are cooked down into a sauce it's a good way to use berries that may be a bit over or under ripe.


Blackberry Ketchup

1 quart (or 1 1/3 lbs) blackberries
1 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup water
1 1/2 cups light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
salt to taste
1/2 pound butter

Combine all but the butter, boil until reduced by half, syrup consistency, about 20- 30 minutes. Puree and strain out seeds. Return pot to the stove and whisk in butter while sauce is hot. Season to taste. Joe said the sauce will last in the refrigerator for up to one month.

Enjoy!

FOOD + ASHEVILLE